Lantern-Lit Evenings in Hoi An

Hoi An's old town turns into something out of a dream after dark, when hundreds of paper lanterns get lit along the river and float downstream on tiny paper boats. We had clothes tailored in an afternoon, ate cao lau from a stall that's apparently been in the same family for three generations, and biked out to the rice paddies just outside town at sunrise.

A cooking class taught us to make banh xeo from scratch, and we've been trying, and failing, to recreate it at home ever since.